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| Ma Hull's Boarding House 122 Hurt Street, Atlanta GA |
In the early 1900s, this house, pictured above, in Atlanta's Inman Park neighborhood was known as the Candler Cottage. It had been home to Asa Candler's sister Florence Harris. (Candler was Atlanta mayor 1916-1919 and a Coca-Cola tycoon.) Mrs Vernon Daisy Grizzle Hull, aka "Ma Hull," and her husband Ross moved into the historic home around 1968 and took in boarders. Word-of-mouth about her delicious meals spread from the boarders to friends and went viral from there. People started showing up on the porch at mealtimes with mighty appetites. Food was served family-style, "pass the yams, please," and Ma Hull did not approve of leftovers. Ma [everyone called her "Ma"] would not let anyone leave the table until all the food had been consumed. I remember her threatening to spoon the rest of the banana pudding into someone's pants unless they went for seconds, even thirds. It wasn't difficult to comply, no matter how full we became. The spread included ham, ribs, roast beef, chicken, dressing, beans (string and butter), yams, greens, casseroles, cornbread, biscuits, and desserts. Oh god, the desserts: most famously her banana pudding, also various cakes and pies. We all felt like we might die by dinner's end, but it was nevertheless bliss. A recovery period relaxing on the porch or in the yard was required after every meal.
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| Ma Hull's dining table, 1974, photo by Roger Allen Grigg, The Great Speckled Bird, Vol. 7 No. 13, April 1, 1974 |
Ma Hull's Boarding House became a pilgrimage destination as her reputation grew. Management at midtown rock club Richards often made sure their out-of-town acts experienced meals at the boarding house. I recall tagging along with Flo and Eddie, also Sopwith Camel, with a friend from the club. Ma's stalwart fanbase grew to include touring musicians such as Little Feat (pictured below), even Mick Jagger and Keith Richards.
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| Little Feat, friends, and family gathered around Ma Hull (seated, holding baby.) Lowell George, in center, stands behind her. |
Ma Hull, by 1974, had cut back to serving only one meal daily at suppertime. Her health was deteriorating. She suffered from diabetes and heart disease. Born in 1909, she died in May 1979 at the age of 69. Decades later, I have yet to encounter any dining experience that comes close to the boisterous family feast Ma Hull served up for so many of us. Incomparable.
Sources:
Inman Park, by Christine V. Marr and Sharon Foster, Arcadia Publishing, 2008
The Great Speckled Bird, Vol. 7 No. 13, April 1, 1974, "A Conversation with Ma Hull," by David Dyar Massey
